Rich's 1998 Amtrak Trip
www.trainweb.com/travelogues/rrrich/starlight.html
PART 4
COAST STARLIGHT
Portland, Oregon to Martinez, California
July 27-28, 1998
(Railroad Log #36a- Seattle
to Oakland)
After detraining in Portland, I had a couple
hours to wait before boarding the next train, the Coast
Starlight. It was 99 in Portland, which I believe was
a record for that day. I had lunch at Wilf's, a restaurant which
is attached to the train station; however, you can't get to it
from the station. You have to go out into the street, then go
into the entrance to the restaurant next door. Good food, but
just a bit expensive. While I was walking around the station,
I saw one of the new Talgo trains which operate between Portland,
Seattle, and Vancouver. One of these years I will find a way to
ride on one of those -- maybe next year, when I plan to ride VIA
Rail's Canadian across Canada as part of my trip,
from Toronto to Vancouver. I'll try and ride the Talgo between
Vancouver and Seattle, if the Talgos will be used on that route,
which I believe is planned.
I sat in the well-stocked Metropolitan Lounge
waiting for the Coast Starlight. We had a message
that it was running a little late, maybe as much as 45 minutes.
I was looking forward to riding what many have dubbed AMTRAK's
"premier train." I had ridden the Starlight
before, but not since the new marketing strategies were implemented
by AMTRAK a couple years ago, and I was looking forward to riding
in the "Pacific Parlour Car" -- a first class hi-level
lounge with comfortable seating, reserved for sleeping car passengers
only, which would be much less congested than the Sightseer Lounge.
According to the recent on-time performance of the Starlight
documented at http://www.reservations.amtrak.com, the train
had been running pretty close to schedule the last few weeks.
I still had a contingency plan, however. If for some reason the
Starlight became late, I could get off at either
Sacramento, Davis, or Martinez in the morning and still catch
the California Zephyr, which follows the same route
as the Starlight between Emeryville and Sacramento.
I had planned on riding the Starlight all the way
to Emeryville on this trip.
The Coast Starlight soon pulled
into the station, not quite as late as I had expected. The Metropolitan
Lounge attendant had asked everyone to wait until the conductor
came in to get the passengers to board, but, being anxious to
get back on the train, I grabbed my 2 suitcases and walked out
to the platform a few minutes early. I was in Room 9 of the sleeper
(I forgot which sleeper I was in) on this trip, and, even though
the car attendant was waiting for his passengers at the entrance
to the car, I told him I could find the room myself, so I went
upstairs and found room 9. But there seems to be a problem here
-- the door on Room 9 would not open! Not a good omen for AMTRAK's
"premier train...." I know some of the sliding doors
on Superliner sleepers get a little stuck sometime, but this is
ridiculous! After struggling for a few minutes, I got the car
attendant, who came upstairs to help, but he too could not get
the door open! He told me he would go and look for something which
may work, and I think the conductor also came through and tried
to help. Finally, the car attendant or the conductor came back
with a crowbar and began pounding it into the sliding groove at
the top of the door to try and free it up, but that didn't work
either. Finally, they had to actually pry the door away from the
grooved rail to get it to move past whatever it was that held
the door closed. I think there was a bolt or something sticking
into the groove which would not allow the door to slide past it.
We finally got the door open, but compromised that I would not
be able to close the door all the way during this trip. I could
of course pull the curtain closed overnight for privacy, but I
would not be able to close the door, and there were no other rooms
available on this train. So this is the kind of sleeping car AMTRAK
uses on their "premier train," eh? Hmmmmm.......
We soon departed Portland, only 20 minutes
late (there is a half hour scheduled layover in Portland, but
since the train came in late, it didn't stay in the station the
full half hour). The car attendant soon came by again and introduced
himself, apologized for the door problem, asked if I had ever
been in this kind of room before (which of course I had, so I
didn't need instructions on how things work), then told me about
the wine-tasting party which is now provided for sleeping car
passengers on this train. It sounded like a fun party, but the
attendant (I forgot his name) told me he wasn't sure exactly when
it would begin, or where it would be. The wine-tasting party is
usually held in the Pacific Parlour Car; however, today, there
was a problem with the air conditioning in the Parlour Car and
it was too hot to sit in, but he would let me know when and where
the party would be. Well, as you may have discerned from reading
previous segments of this trip report, I am not one to sit in
the sleeping car room for any length of time during the day --
I wanted to get to the Parlour Car or the Sightseer Lounge immediately
and continue my video of this trip, so I soon headed out, remembering
of course that I could not close the door to my room all the way.
I closed it as far as I could and pulled the curtain closed --
the car attendant would certainly keep an eye on the room.
I then headed back to the Pacific Parlour
Car, which is a beautiful car, with lots of wooden finish, tables,
a full bar, and soft plushy chairs, but it was definitely HOT!!!!!!
Very very hot!!!! I don't believe I have ever been in a hotter
AMTRAK car. I don't know why it was so hot -- maybe the old Hi-Level
Full Length Dome car (former SP car?) from which this car was
converted wasn't quite compatible with Head-End power or the new
Genesis engines...??? I don't know. There were obviously no passengers
in the Pacific Parlour Car. This is AMTRAK's "premier train,"
huh? I am sure they just had bad equipment the day I rode this
train, because I have read in other TrainWeb submittals from Steve
Grande and others that normally the equipment on the Starlight
is in good shape. I got a beer from Mario, the Parlour Car attendant,
who was in the hot car now and then, and took it back through
the diner and into the fairly crowded Sightseer Lounge. I figured
the wine tasting party would be later in the afternoon, maybe
5 PM or so, and that someone would tell me when it was.
I sat in the Sightseer Lounge and continued
my video as we traversed the Willamette Valley south of Portland
and soon passed the northbound Starlight. I got
a video of a small waterfall in the river in Oregon City, which
I have somehow managed to miss on all my former trips on this
train, but, with my map books, I knew when it was coming up, so
was able to get my camcorder turned on and aimed by the time we
passed it. Again, throughout much of this part of the route, there
is dense vegetation along the Willamette River, so it is rare
to be able to get a photo of the river. As I was sitting there,
my sleeping car attendant walked through the Sightseer Lounge
and past me several times, and once he even took my empty beer
glass back to the Parlour Car for me.
We left the Albany, Oregon station approximately
45 minutes late. I was starting to wonder whether maybe I should
plan on getting off at Martinez or Davis in the morning, since
we had not made up any time yet. Oh well, I'll make that decision
in the morning, after I see how we did overnight with the schedule.
One reason we were not able to make up time this afternoon was
that there were "speed restrictions" on the welded rail
through this area since it was so hot outside, and apparently
the welded rail can expand. Back when I lived up north, I have
experienced speed restrictions due to extreme cold in the winter
because of ice and frozen switches, but I have never heard of
speed restrictions due to hot conditions. Maybe we were really
following a freight train?.... The speed restriction story sounded
somewhat logical to me, though.
Between Albany and Salem, I decided to walk
back to the Parlour Car to get another beer. I had kind of forgotten
about the wine tasting party, but as I walked up through the diner,
every seat in the diner was occupied. What is going on? It's certainly
not dinner time yet. Then I figured it out -- this was the wine
tasting party! I was upset that no one had told me about it, like
they said they would, even after seeing my car attendant walk
right past me several times in the Sightseer Lounge --
why didn't he tell me it was wine-tasting time? I asked and was
told that an announcement had been made throughout the train.
Apparently the P.A. system in the Sightseer Lounge was not working
(which I have found is quite common on AMTRAK), so I never heard
the announcement. I asked Mario if I could sit down somewhere
and enjoy the rest of the wine tasting party, and he said no!
No -- I had missed most of it, and everyone should be able to
sit through the entire tasting and sample all three wines. I had
missed most of it, but Mario would have a "private wine tasting
party" for me later. I explained that I had been in the Sightseer
Lounge, my attendant had never said anything to me about the party,
and that I had not heard the announcement, but his answer was
still no. He'll find me and do a private tasting later. That was
nice of him. So I went back to the Sightseer Lounge, still a bit
upset.
We had made the Salem stop, and still Mario
had not found me for my private wine tasting, so I walked back
up through the diner into the hot Parlour Car. The main tasting
was over, but there were still a few passengers sitting in the
diner. I found a table in the hot Parlour Car and sat for the
rest of the evening. Yes, the car was hot, but was maybe 1 or
2 degrees cooler now, and, since I do live in Florida where it
is often hot and muggy, I figured I could acclimate to the heat.
The Pacific Parlour Car was a beautiful car, and the Sightseer
Lounge was getting crowded. Maybe the Parlour Car would cool off
as we began climbing up in elevation through the Cascades -- NOT!!
I soon asked Mario where he wanted me to
go for my private wine tasting, and he said I could either stay
in the hot Parlour Car or go to my room. Well, guess what option
I chose! Again, I do not like sitting in my sleeper room during
the day when all I can see if half the scenery, and the Parlour
Car was a nice car (although still quite toasty!), so I opted
to stay in it. I think Mario would have preferred me to go back
to my room where it was nice and cool. I had my private wine tasting
-- 3 wines, all of which were quite good. There was another passenger
who had also missed the tasting and was having a private tasting
in the Parlour Car. Between Salem and Eugene I had sampled the
wines, and then bought a few glasses of the one I liked. I think
I probably had too much wine in that hot car! I did not remember
several portions of this trip until I looked at my video the following
week! I am sure the temperature in the car did not help my body
acclimate to all the wine! I did manage to get out of the Parlour
Car in Eugene and walk around some. It was still hot outside,
but much cooler than inside the Parlour Car. We departed Eugene
1 hour 2 minutes late. I think I had better consider getting off
this train before Emeryville in the morning.
Back in the Parlour Car, Mario was talking
to a passenger who was on his first AMTRAK trip, and I heard him
apologize to the passenger for the car being so hot. Then a young
girl walked through the car and asked me how the few of us who
were in the Parlour Car could stand the heat. I told her I was
used to heat and humidity, having lived in Florida for a few years.
I continued my video as we began the climb up into the Cascade
Mountains. As we passed through Oakridge and rounded the Horseshoe
Curve across Salmon Creek, Mario took me downstairs in the Parlour
Car, and opened up the outside windows in the Dutch doors for
me to take some video. I got an excellent sequence of the Starlight
rounding the curves and going through the forests, without reflections
in the windows! I took some video from each side of the train.
Meanwhile, an announcement was made that the movie "As Good
As It Gets" would be showing in the Sightseer Lounge in a
few minutes. As you know from the previous segments of this trip,
I do not watch movies on trains, and when they are shown, usually
the movie drowns out all the narration I do for my videos. I was
happy in the hot Parlour Car for now, and would not have to compete
with the movie.
I chose the 8 PM dinner seating again on
this train, and it had gotten fairly dark by then. It had been
raining around McCredie Springs right before dinner, at the base
of the climb up through the Cascade Mountains, so I was not able
to get much video. I think I fell asleep through dinner -- too
much wine in the hot Parlour Car, I guess. So it was an early
evening for me.
On Tuesday morning I was up shortly after
sunrise, as usual, and fully recovered from the private wine tasting!
We had departed the Marysville station 1 hr 42 minutes late --
I will definitely get off this train at Martinez! Announcements
were made to connecting passengers that they should get off at
Sacramento to assure making their connections with the California
Zephyr. Knowing what I do about AMTRAK schedules and knowing
a little about operations, I figured the Sacramento connection
was not really necessary, and I wanted to stay on this train as
long as possible. I was very confident that I would still make
my connection by getting off at Martinez. At one point I was even
thinking that maybe I could get all the way to Emeryville if we
made up a little time, but the Chief, I believe (a very nice woman
whose name I forgot), told me that the Starlight
cannot get into the Emeryville station if the Zephyr
is already there -- apparently there is only one track, and the
Starlight often has to wait for the Zephyr
to depart before it can pull into the station. Normally the Starlight
gets to Emeryville before the Zephyr is pulled into
the station, but since we were late today, the Zephyr
would certainly be there by time we arrived. So I decided to get
off at Martinez, and the Chief assured me that I could probably
make the connection there easily.
As we departed the Marysville station, I
was hoping to get a video of the Yuba River as we crossed, but,
just before I got the shot, my camcorder battery pack ran out
again! Time to replace batteries yet again! I went back into the
Pacific Parlour Car in the morning, and -- miracle of miracles
-- it was very cool and pleasant in the car! Several people were
in the car having continental breakfast. Apparently one of the
conductors was able to fix the air conditioning problem, which
turned out to be a very simple adjustment or repair, yet the crew
the day before had assured everyone that there was "no way"
they could fix the air conditioning. The morning in the Parlour
Car was very enjoyable.
Passing through Roseville, Mario pointed
out the Roseville Auction and Farmer's Market to me, which is
on the west side of the railroad. I guess that auction is quite
big and popular in these parts. We soon arrived in Sacramento,
and departed 1 hour 5 minutes late, so we had made up some time,
but I still decided to get off the train in Martinez. As we crossed
the Sacramento River just past the AMTRAK station, the paddlewheeler
Delta King was moored in the river a little downstream
from the railroad bridge. We departed the Davis station 1 hr 20
minutes late. I believe we were delayed by freight trains ahead
of the Starlight. While we were stopped at Davis,
the Chief announced that, behind the station, there were some
interesting "hologram poles" which could be seen from
the train. I either was not looking at them right, or looking
at the wrong feature, but I videotaped what I thought to be the
hologram poles, and was not overly impressed. What I had photographed
looked like three or four tall shiny poles -- period. We soon
left Davis, and as we pulled out of the station, I saw what appeared
to be a homeless man camping in a sleeping bag on the south side
of the tracks, in an area full of discarded cans and other trash.
We soon approached Martinez, and I got some
good video of the Carquinez Strait. The bridge over the Strait
is shared by the railroad and the highway (Interstate 680). The
highway and the railroad each have separate approaches to the
bridge on the north side of the Strait, but eventually the two
bridges merge, and the railroad uses the lower level of the bridge,
while the highway occupies the upper level. I had looked forward
to riding the Starlight all the way to Emeryville,
and getting some good video of San Pablo Bay, which the railroad
hugs for several miles between Martinez and the San Francisco
Bay area. But such was not to be today -- maybe next year. As
we had nearly completed our crossing of the bridge, the train
stopped for reasons unknown. In a few minutes I found out the
reason -- a freight train was coming the other direction, and
the tracks apparently become single track at the end of the bridge,
so we let the freight train pass. While we were stopped, I was
able to go into the room across from mine (which was now unoccupied)
and video the U.S. Navy "mothball fleet" of old warships,
which sits quietly in the calm waters of Suisun Bay now. We soon
began pulling into the Martinez station, and my main concern now
was that, since I had a reservation for a sleeper room on the
California Zephyr out of Emeryville, would I still
have the room by the time the Zephyr got to Martinez,
or would I be considered a no-show and have my room sold? I asked
the Chief and she told me that I need not worry, since rooms in
sleeper cars cannot be resold for the first hour after departure.
The Starlight arrived at Martinez
1 hr 30 minutes late. After I had gotten off, the first thing
I wanted to do was to again confirm my sleeper status on the Zephyr
with the Martinez station agent. I walked into the small Martinez
station and asked, and was told basically the same thing the Chief
had told me, that I need not worry. The attendants on the Zephyr
had a list of connecting passengers, and would know that some
passengers had gotten off early due to the tardiness of the Starlight
. With that
now confirmed, I stood around outside the Martinez station, walked
around and enjoyed the nice morning, and had a chance to see the
new "California cars" on a Capitol which
had passed through the station, and later on one of the San
Joaquins. My impressions of the Starlight
were generally favorable, except for the door problem on my sleeper
room, the hot Pacific Parlour Car, and not being properly informed
about the wine party the previous afternoon. Maybe I'll ride this
train next year and it will have better equipment.
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