Rich's 1998 Amtrak Trip
www.trainweb.com/travelogues/rrrich/meteor.html
INTRODUCTION - Orlando AMTRAK station
I arrived at the Orlando AMTRAK station at noon or so on a
sunny warm Thursday, about one hour before the scheduled departure
of the northbound Silver Meteor. The 11:26 AM southbound
Silver Star was long gone. I took my large suitcase,
smaller (but much heavier) "map book"
suitcase (which contained 10 Acco-Press binders full of route
maps for all segments of this trip, plus essentials such as tickets,
my journal, timetables, and writing utensils), and video camera
case to the platform, and was offered a self-serve baggage cart
to put my luggage on by one of the baggage handlers. Prior to
this trip, I had come to the AMTRAK station at least once every
weekend for the 4 or 5 months immediately preceding the trip,
to watch either the southbound Silver Star or the
northbound Silver Meteor pull in and out, and because
of these trips, I knew the consist of the 1998 "Silver Service"
trains by heart -- either 1 or 2 Genesis engines at the head of
the train, followed by 1 or 2 mail or mail-baggage cars, a dorm
sleeper (generally an older Heritage 10-6) used by the on-board
crew, 2 Viewliner sleepers, diner, Amcafe lounge car, then 4 Amfleet
coaches on the end. I knew my Viewliner sleeper would be near
the front end of the train, so I waited at the appropriate location.
As I was waiting for the northbound Meteor from
Miami, the connecting Thruway bus from Tampa/St. Petersburg arrived
with 20 or so connecting passengers. Meanwhile, the perennial
outgoing Thruway bus was parked at the north end of the station
waiting for connecting passengers from Miami for Lakeland, Tampa,
and the Gulf Coast. The bus driver was engaged in a conversation
with the baggage handlers about threatening to quit his job right
then and there, since he had again gotten a bus with no air conditioning
and bad brakes several times in a row now, and had had it with
AMTRAK and the bus concessionaire. In Florida, you definitely
need air conditioning in a bus in July! A few minutes later, the
bus driver was seen walking from the bus into the station with
his suitcase, but 15 or 20 minutes later, he had cooled down,
gone back to the bus, and had decided to finish his scheduled
run that day after all.
As I was waiting, my good friend Sue had taken a few minutes
out of her lunch break at a large Orlando law firm to come to
the station, see me off, and capture me on my own video camera
as the train pulled in. I have had the Sony "Mini-Cam"
video recorder since Christmas 1994, and have videotaped several
train trips so far. The last major project was my 9-day AMTRAK
trip in 1996, from which I had produced 6 hours of videotape.
This 1998 trip would be a 12-day trip, and I had estimated that
I would probably produce 8 hours of tape this time. All my videotapes
are narrated by me, and the scenery being taped is referenced
to mileposts which I had marked in my map books -- not
"railroad mileposts," but my own mileposts which begin
at the beginning of my mapped log and end at the end. The map
and log for this part of the Silver Meteor route
begins in Jacksonville ("mile 0"). The Orlando station
is located at milepost 148 on my log, and a different log covers
the route from Jacksonville up to Washington D.C. My logs generally
(not always!) progress from west to east or north to south.
By 12:45 PM, the northbound Meteor had not yet
arrived, which is unusual, since on nearly all my weekly visits
to the station, both Trains #91 and #98 had generally arrived
10 to 15 minutes early and left on time. Today must be one of
the <5% of days the train would be late into Orlando. As I
was checking my watch, a short southbound Florida Central (FC
has trackage rights on CSX through Orlando) freight pulled through
the station on Track #1, which was also unusual, since most southbound
trains (freight and passenger) use Track #2, as Track #1 is generally
used by northbound AMTRAK trains. I correctly figured that this
freight would delay the Meteor, but it did not delay
it very much. The freight switched tracks before the next grade
crossing south of the station, and the Meteor soon
appeared, no more than 15 or 20 minutes late. Sue was afraid she
may not get to see the train, since her lunch hour was rapidly
coming to an end, but she got to see the train, and saw me off
after all.
In my video narrations, I always verbally keep track of the
trains' on-time performances. I have actually always done that,
but in the days before video, I would actually put together "OTP
charts" for each train I was on, and keep track of the performance.
Why would I do such a thing? Good question -- I guess I am interested
in seeing how the performance of AMTRAK trains has changed over
the years. Most AMTRAK trains outside the Northeast Corridor run
consistently late. I don't know why this continues to happen on
a regular basis after almost 30 years of AMTRAK, but it does.
For several weeks prior to this trip, I checked AMTRAK's "Train
Arrival Status" page in their Web site (http://www.reservations.amtrak.com)
at least 3 times a week to check on the current on-time standards
of "my" trains -- the ones I would ride on this trip.
Most of them had been running within 2 hours of schedule on most
days, except for the Sunset Ltd, which was running
anywhere from 5 to 17 hour late! Nonetheless, I had a contingency
plan for most of my connections, which often involved getting
off the train early and catching the next train as it came the
other direction on the same route, or getting off somewhere and
catching a Thruway bus. As far as the Sunset was
concerned, no problem -- I had an overnight stay in New Orleans
the evening before, so it didn't matter when it left, and the
other end of that route was Orlando, Florida -- home (no connections
to make!)
SILVER METEOR
Orlando, FL to
Washington, DC
July 23-24, 1998
I am in Room 11 of the Viewliner Sleeper
"Majestic View," and my attendant is a British fellow
named Peter (I think his last name was "Spacek"). Peter
looked and sounded familiar to me, and I assumed that I had him
as an attendant previously. While telling my friend Sue about
the trip after I returned, we decided that Sue and I had Peter
as our attendant in 1997, when I took Sue on her first train trip
(her father was a safety engineer for the New York Central Hudson
Division way back when!). We had ridden the Capitol Ltd
from Chicago to Washington, and the Meteor from
Washington to Orlando, and Peter had been our attendant on #97.
In 1997, Sue and I had originally planned to go to Chicago on
AMTRAK , via Train #92 to Sanford, Train #1 to New Orleans, then
Train #58 to Chicago. That was the year after AMTRAK had the brilliant
idea to terminate the Sunset Ltd in Sanford to save
money in deadheading the train between Orlando and Sanford for
servicing, where it is serviced at the Auto Train facility, next
door to the regular AMTRAK station. This of course forced the
Orlando passengers to either take a Thruway bus between Orlando
and Sanford, or like we were going to do, take the Silver
Star. Thankfully, the Sanford termination of the Sunset
only lasted a year or so, and now Trains #1 and #2 provide service
all the way to Orlando once again. Our AMTRAK trip from Orlando
to Chicago was canceled 2 hours prior to train time because of
a freight derailment in the Florida Panhandle, which resulted
in cancellation of the Sunset that day, which was
replaced by an overnight bus from Orlando or Jacksonville to New
Orleans. Sue wanted no part of that long overnight bus ride, and
I can't say I blame her, since it would have been quite uncomfortable
for both of us. (A note: two hours before we were due to arrive
at the station, AMTRAK telephoned me to inform me of the cancellation
of the Sunset -- AMTRAK is very good about calling
travelers with schedule changes, and have always called me if
there has been even the slightest change in one of my reservations,
even though I ghenerally knew about them before being called).
So instead of riding the train,
we "cheated" and flew to Chicago 2 days later, but kept
the AMTRAK reservation for the return trip. The cancellation of
the first part of the trip turned out to be a blessing in disguise,
however, since, to my disappointment, Sue did not enjoy the 2-night
train trip from Chicago to Orlando -- the motion made her nauseous,
and even the deluxe bedroom accommodations (on both Superliner
and Viewliner) were too cramped for her style. At least she tried
it, and we are still good friends!
Meanwhile, back on board the
Meteor, Peter helped me take my suitcases to my
room. On my trips, I always travel first class (sleeper) on overnight
trips nowadays -- this 50-year old simply cannot curl up in those
coach seats any more, with the distractions of other passengers,
noise, etc., and sleep a good night's sleep! I never check my
baggage -- it always goes with me in my room, even on Superliners
which have convenient baggage racks on the lower level of all
sleepers. On my 1993 trip, I had ridden the Sunset Ltd
from Orlando all the way to Los Angeles, a few weeks after the
initiation of the transcontinental service on the Sunset.
On the third night of the trip, I put my large suitcase in the
downstairs luggage racks, and went to bed. The following morning,
heading into Los Angeles, I discovered my suitcase had disappeared
from the luggage rack! To make a long story short, it had been
taken off the train unintentionally by a confused elderly couple
who had detrained overnight in Tempe, AZ, thinking it was theirs.
The conductor and car attendant had told me the following morning
that they thought this confused couple had an awful lot of baggage
for just the two of them -- why no one from the train crew looked
at the name tags on all their luggage to help them at that time,
I'll never know. After days of calls and discussions with Station
Services personnel, baggage agents, on-board Chiefs, and conductors,
my bags caught up with me 4 days later in Chicago! (I had to buy
some new clothes during my overnight layover in Seattle, but AMTRAK
kindly paid my taxi fare to a department store, and I got a credit
from AMTRAK later). So that is why my bags travel with me
now!
This was my first experience
in a Viewliner standard bedroom, and it was a good experience.
The extra upper window is nice, even if there is only one person
in the room, and the presence of a toilet and sink in the room
is welcomed. The Viewliner standard bedrooms are about the same
size as the Superliner standard bedrooms (formerly known as "economy
bedrooms"), which I also like; however, I believe the space
is used much more efficiently in the Viewliners, and, as stated
above, the Viewliner bedrooms have sinks and toilets; the Superliner
rooms do not. In the Superliners, I generally fold out the upper
berth and keep my suitcases there, so there is still plenty of
leg room on the floor. I had assumed I would do the same in the
Viewliner room, but I found out that I don't have to, since there
is a nifty little crawl space at the top of the room above the
sink, in which my suitcases just fit! Without having to crank
the top berth down (yes, the upper berths in Viewliner rooms are
operated with a very easy-to-use crank, rather than a fold-down
system), I can still take full advantage of the double windows
in the room.
We finally left the Orlando
station about 18 minutes late, which did not bother me at all.
I always have a whole set of "contingency plans" for
late trains, and have learned over the years how to schedule my
trips so as to minimize the possibilities of missed connections.
On this particular train, we could be several hours late and it
wouldn't bother me, since I had a scheduled layover in Washington
DC of almost 6 hours, and the scheduled arrival time of 5:40 AM
was a bit early for my tastes, even though I am usually awake
at that hour on my trains trips -- but I am usually on the train
at that hour, and not in a station in a city in which nothing
will be open for 2 or 3 hours yet. I have never been much for
sitting in a waiting room for an extended period of time!
Before we had arrived at the
Winter Park station (15 minutes north of Orlando), I had found
a table to perch at in the Amcafe (or was it an Amdinette? I don't
remember the difference) car and had continued my video. AMTRAK
needs to come up with a better style than the old Amdinette/cafe
cars on non-Superliner trains. When Amfleet first came out, it
was the greatest thing in rail travel since canned beer! 20 years
later, I think Am-whatever cars are boring! I do thoroughly enjoy
spending my time in Sightseer lounges on Superliner trains, but
that will have to wait until I board the Cardinal in
Washington D.C. tomorrow. These Amdinettes have got to go! Seating
is limited in the "table cafe" section of the car, and
I don't enjoy sitting in the "smoking lounge" section,
even during non-smoking periods. The arrangement of tables and
chairs in the smoking lounge section is not conducive to the type
of scenery watching, map following, and videotaping that I do.
The "table-cafe" section (if you have ridden in one
of these cars, you know what I mean by the "smoking lounge"
and "table cafe" sections! -- if not, e-mail me at rrrich123@aol.com
and I will explain!) is a bit more conducive to my needs, but
I always feel like I'm "hogging" space that some coach
passengers, who don't have the luxury of a sleeper, should be
allowed to use. There did not seem to be a problem with this on
the two Viewliner/Amfleet trains I rode this trip (this train
and the Crescent). Additionally, the train crew
normally sits in the table-cafe portion of the Amlounge, and,
even though I enjoy listening in on their scanners (I need to
buy one of those for me sometime!) and keeping up to date with
the train operations, the constant jabber on the scanners sometimes
interferes with the narration of my videotapes.
We had left the Sanford station
17 minutes late by my watch. Just past the station is the massive
Auto Train yards and servicing facility (which also services the
Sunset Ltd between trips from Los Angeles to Orlando
and the return trip. I saw an unusual car in the Auto Train yard,
which was labeled "Table Car." I had never seen such
a car in all my years of travel -- all I can imagine is that is
some kind of lounge car, maybe one which was formerly used on
the Auto Train before it became Superliner (the Auto Train is
about the only AMTRAK train which I have never ridden!)
Between Sanford and DeLand,
we lost a few more minutes on the bridge which crosses the St.
Johns River just south of the large Florida Power & Light
power plant, which is readily visible from the train. The culprit
for this delay was trackwork, and by the time we had left DeLand,
we were now 32 minutes late -- still no problem to me!
As we passed through Pierson,
Florida, a town in the middle of a productive ornamental fern-growing
area, I saw one of the areas which was burned by the wildfires
in Florida just a few weeks before this trip -- the fires came
right up to the railroad right-of-way in some places, and the
Silver Service trains were canceled for several days during the
peak of the fires in June and July. To be honest, I was quite
worried that, if the fires had continued a few weeks longer, this
trip itself may have had to be canceled. As the afternoon wore
on, we became 15 to 30 minutes late for various reasons -- mostly
freight delays, AMTRAK's perennial problem! What ever happened
to the attitude that freight trains were supposed to wait for
passenger trains in sidings, not the other way around? More about
this later in the trip....
South of Pierson, I listened
in to the crew's radio, and heard something about this train stopping
somewhere nearby so we could allow the southbound Silver
Meteor to pass. We slowed to a crawl for several miles,
and I wasn't sure if we were waiting for the southbound train,
or delayed due to another reason, since the phantom southbound
train didn't appear for several minutes. Finally, just south of
the small town of Seville, it finally passed us, and our train
soon picked up speed and continued north. We left the Palatka
station 37 minutes late, and arrived in Jacksonville 31 minutes
late.
About videotaping on a train
-- I have two perennial problems with this: window reflections,
and trees. The glass used in AMTRAK windows is very reflective
heavy-duty glass, especially in Superliner Sightseer lounges.
When videotaping through a window, I try and minimize the reflections
by either angling my view or holding the camera close to the glass,
but these techniques do not always work, especially in early morning
and late afternoon/evening. Even on cloudy days, reflections can
be a problem. I purchased a "state of the art" circular
polarizer for my video camera, which sometimes works in minimizing
reflections, but when it does, the finished video tape often contains
weird splotches of orange, blue, or yellow in the views (but no
reflections!). The effectiveness of my circular polarizer to eliminate
reflections is somewhat akin to trying to stop a Genesis locomotive
with merely your outstretched arms! I need a super polarizer--
anyone know of any such animal?
Even though I have detailed
topographic maps (1 inch=2000 ft) showing every route over which
I travel, they don't identify the areas in which your view is
blocked by trees, which in the east, is extensive! I generally
look for specific features to film based on my maps, such as small
towns, river crossings, lakes next to the tracks, etc., but sure
enough, by the time the feature appears and my video camera "clicks
in," here come the trees! Especially in the summer, which
is when I take my trips -- winter travel by AMTRAK is very often
risky, especially if you have close connections.
Just south of Jacksonville,
the Chief of On-Board Services announced that he would be making
dinner reservations, starting at the sleepers and working his
way back through the train. This is the standard procedure. I
left the Amdinette lounge and walked up to my room for reservations.
The choices tonight were 5 PM, 6:30 PM, or 8 PM. On most of the
segments of this trip, I opted for the latest reservation time
available, since I wanted to maximize the use of daylight hours
to videotape as much of each route as I could. In most places
through which I traveled, it was generally dark by 8 or 8:30 PM
(except in the northernmost portions of the journey), so I generally
chose to eat at that time. I chose the 8 PM seating on this segment.
While in Jacksonville, I walked
around the platform for a few minutes videotaping the train, the
station, and the people boarding and disembarking. As I was standing
on the platform, the sharp beep of the horn on one of the baggage
carts interrupted my taping, as I was nearly run off the platform
by one of the baggage handlers! I stepped back and let the baggage
cart proceed, then continued my taping. Wow! -- I just realized
that I've only been on the train for 3 or 4 hours, and have taken
nearly a half hour of video so far! I only have 8 hours worth
of tape for the rest of this 12-day trip! I need to conserve tape
(well, okay -- I brought a 5th 2-hour tape along "just in
case."). It'll be great to see all this video when I get
home, but who else among my friends would want to sit through
8 or 10 hours of video tape of a train trip?!
We left Jacksonville 32 minutes
late, and most of what you see from the train going through Georgia
is trees (refer to the problems of videotaping from trains, listed
above!). I wanted to video the small town of Nahunta as we raced
through, since I have driven on the highway through Nahunta before.
I belong to a Singles Club in central Florida, and each year we
take a trip to Jekyll Island, Ga., in November. One of our day
trips is always a trip to the Okefenokee Swamp, and to get there
from Jekyll Island, the only highway is the road through Nahunta.
I enjoy seeing and videotaping places I have driven through from
the train. But by the time my map showed we were in Nahunta, we
had picked up speed and actually sped through town too fast to
tape much of anything except a clearing in the trees, and the
highway. And the tracks were getting rough. Back in the early
days of AMTRAK, all tracks were rough everywhere in the country.
Today, thankfully, resulting from years of trackwork and repair
and a t remendous joint effort between AMTRAK and its contracting
railroads, most tracks are fairly smooth, and it is comfortable
to ride on them at passenger train speeds. However, the CSX tracks
between Jacksonville and Washington, DC, are the roughest
tracks on the system, in my opinion. And the Silver Service trains
go fast down those rough tracks! (top speed 79 mph).
By the time we got to Jesup, we
hadn't lost any more time, and were still 32 minutes late, after
"double-stopping" at the station. Many of the smaller
AMTRAK stations across the country do not have platforms which
are long enough to accommodate a typical 10 to 15 car AMTRAK passenger
train. At many of these stations, if there are both coach and
sleeper passengers getting on or off at that station, the train
will stop twice, once to load/unload the coach section, and a
second time to load/unload the sleeper section. This is what I
mean by "double-stopping."
After the Yemassee stop, it was
getting dark and finally time to eat dinner. I went to the diner
when the 8 PM reservations were called. Just a note concerning
the AMTRAK dinner reservation system -- earlier in the afternoon,
someone (either the dining car steward or the On-Board Chief)
will come through the train and make reservations for dinner.
Passengers can pick from a number of seatings, and are given a
slip of paper with their seating time written on it, but the reservation
maker does not need your name, or even your room number or car
number. When you show up for dinner later, the little slip of
paper is not collected by anyone, or even looked at. In my opinion,
anyone on the train could probably eat any time they want to,
regardless of what time their reservation was for! I guess AMTRAK
has the reservation system merely for space utilization purposes,
so that everyone on the train does not end up wanting to eat at
the same time. I was joined for dinner on this first night of
my trip by a woman and her daughter from St. Simons Island (next
door to Jekyll Island) and a retired female military navy person
who had served in Hawaii during World War II.
After dinner I went back to my
room for the evening, except for a 20-minute trip later to the
lounge car to get a soft drink before bed, and to enjoy the scenery
in the somewhat quieter Amdinette lounge. I soon went to bed and
had a hard time sleeping as we traveled across the rough CSX tracks
overnight -- I usually have a little trouble getting re-acclimated
to the motion of the train during the first night in a sleeper,
but by the second night, no problem, and I sleep well the rest
of the trip.
I woke up Friday morning around
Richmond, Virginia, and soon discovered that we were now about
2 hours late, and I didn't know why. I hadn't remembered any long
stops overnight, so apparently I had slept through them. Upon
talking to some of the train crew, I found out that a truck had
hit a bridge somewhere overnight, and the railroad had to inspect
the bridge before it was safe for the train to cross it -- somewhere
in North Carolina, I guess. We were then further delayed for about
45 minutes at the Richmond station, and I never did find out the
reason for that delay. Most likely it was a freight delay -- in
90% of the cases where an AMTRAK train stops seemingly "in
the middle of nowhere" for long periods of time, it is a
freight delay -- there is either a slow freight ahead of AMTRAK
traveling the same direction AMTRAK is, or there is an approaching
freight train ahead of us coming toward AMTRAK, and AMTRAK usually
ends up sitting in a siding while the freight passes. One of AMTRAK's
perennial problems during its almost 30 years of existence.
I stayed in the room Friday morning
and videotaped from my side of the train. We passed a number of
Virginia Railway Express stations, some of which are located at
the same site as AMTRAK. The VRE is a relatively new commuter
service which connects Washington DC with many areas of northern
Virginia, to serve the growing number of commuters who work in
the Capital and live in the more rural and peaceful Virginia countryside.
I took plenty of video of the Fredericksburg area, crossing the
Rappahannock River, the Quantico Marine Base, and the approach
into Washington. I have now taken nearly an hour of videotape,
but still have 7 more trains to ride! I may need that 5th 2-hour
tape after all.
We arrived in Washington DC at
8:20 AM, which was a much more reasonable hour than 5:40 AM, the
scheduled arrival time, even though the arrival was 2 hours 40
minutes late. I had more than 3 hours until the scheduled departure
of my next train, the Cardinal ,and I was looking
forward to being in a Superliner train, with a Sightseer Lounge,
which I enjoy so much more than the Amdinette lounge. I spent
my time between trains walking through Union Station, having breakfast
in the food court, looking through the myriad of shops and stores
in the station, and taking a short walk to the Capitol building
to take some more video from the little lake in front of the Capitol.
It was a beautiful sunny morning in the Nation's Capital, even
though later that day, after I had again left on the train, there
would be a shooting inside the Capitol building, which dominated
the network news for the next several weeks.
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