Rich's 1998 Amtrak Trip
www.trainweb.com/travelogues/rrrich/cardinal.html
PART 2
CARDINAL
Washington, DC to Chicago, IL
July 24-25, 1998
(Railroad Log #55b - CIN to
WAS)
During my few hours layover in Washington, D.C., I checked
my suitcases into the Metropolitan Lounge, which is a fairly nice
area of the station. The most unusual thing to me was that there
are rarely many other people in the Metropolitan Lounge. Considering
the number of NE Corridor and long-distance trains that pass through
Washington each day, I would expect the Metropolitan Lounge to
be fairly full all the time, but on three or four occasions where
I have used this lounge, I was about the only person there --
unlike the Metropolitan Lounge in Chicago, which is a constant
scene of crowds and confusion. I placed my bags in the storage
area which was pointed out by the attendant, and felt that my
bags would be pretty safe there. I have never had a bad experience
with baggage at any Metropolitan Lounge. Unlike the Chicago Metropolitan
Lounge, I did not have to get a "boarding pass" to use
the lounge, and I did not have to place stickers on my suitcases
with the train numbers on them, like you have to do in Chicago.
There is a door from the Washington Lounge which leads directly
to the upper level of the station platforms. Most of the NE Corridor
trains (including Metroliners), along with MARC trains, arrive
and depart from the upper level of Union Station, while the trains
which go south of Washington depart from the lower level, since
that is where the 2 or 3 tracks which lead into the tunnel which
passes from Union Station directly beneath the U.S. Capitol Building
and onto the RFP/Southern main lines south of the station are
located. To get to the lower level, one must take either an escalator
or an elevator, and baggage carts are not allowed on the escalator.
I usually opt for the escalator, and carry my suitcases from the
top of the escalator into my car. Sometimes (but not always!)
there are redcaps who will help you get your suitcases from the
Metropolitan Lounge into your sleeping car. At the appointed hour,
an announcement is made for first class passengers in the lounge
to board, and one of the doors leading to the platform opens,
and the group is greeted by a security guard right on the other
side of the door, who personally escorts you to your waiting train
(which generally leaves from tracks J or K for thru trains which
go south of Washington).
I had a couple hours to wander around the station and make
my usual stops (including the Great Train Store and whatever types
of political souvenir shops happen to be in fashion at the time).
Sometimes I eat in the station, or at least have a beer -- this
AM I chose a big pastry and cup of diet cola from one of the places
in the food court in the lower level. After breakfast I walked
around, and took a short walk to the Capitol building, which is
an easy 10-minute walk from Union Station. I took some video,
then headed back to the station and sat in the Metropolitan lounge
until train time. At 11 AM or so, the Cardinal was
ready for boarding, so me and 2 or 3 other sleeper passengers
who were in the lounge boarded at that time, and were escorted
to track K by the security guard. I took the escalator down, and
my sleeper was fairly close to the bottom of the escalator. I
met Brenda the sleeping car attendant, and soon found room 4,
on the upper level on the left side of the train the way it was
consisted that day. On some trains, I prefer one side of the train
or another for scenery purposes; however, I do not request certain
rooms when I make my reservations, since one never knows ahead
of time how any particular train will be consisted on the day
I take it. The design of the Superliner cars (coaches and sleepers)
makes it just as easy to consist any car "frontwards"
or "backwards," and all passengers will still get a
seat facing forward. I don't care what side of the train my accommodations
are on, but I do like to ride facing forward, and sleep with my
head at the "rear" end of the room. I spend most of
my time on my trips in the lounge car, and do not spend a great
deal of time in my room. When one is confined to his room, you
are limited in seeing only half the scenery, unless you are lucky
enough to have an unoccupied room across from you, or an occupied
room in which the occupant keeps the door and window curtains
open, and this is a very rare occurrence indeed!
After I got my bags situated in my room, I walked back outside
the car to talk to Brenda and to walk the length of the train
to see what equipment it had. But there was something missing!
-- This train did not have a Sightseer Lounge!!! I was indeed
very disappointed, as I had been looking forward to sitting in
a Sightseer Lounge for 2 days now! Oh well -- I guess I'll have
to wait another day -- until I board the Empire Builder
in Chicago tomorrow -- the Builder will certainly
have a Sightseer Lounge! I asked Brenda why there was no lounge,
and she didn't know. but told me there was another kind of lounge
somewhere on the train, yet she hadn't seen it yet. Well, neither
had I, and I walked the entire length of the train, and saw no
lounge car. I did not like the fact that I would be confined in
my room for almost 24 hours with nowhere to go! But I'll survive.
After we got underway, I talked to John McConnor, the On-Board
Chief, and he told me that the Sightseer Lounge which is normally
used on the Cardinal was in Chicago for repairs.
Apparently it had gone to Chicago on the last run of the Cardinal,
but had problems, so it did not come back to Washington, and there
are no other Sightseer Lounges available in Washington. He also
told me there was a "cafe coach" car on the train, which
apparently was a small lounge in the lower level of one of the
Superliner coaches. I will check it out later.
The Cardinal left on time, and ran on schedule
all the way to Manassas, Virginia, and I was stuck in my room
for the entire length of the trip. Meanwhile, Brenda, who was
very friendly, talkative, and informative, was talking to some
other passengers in the same sleeper as me, and giving them hordes
of information about AMTRAK, the sleeper cars, meals, and everything
else. She had also made a comment to the other passengers that
the Cardinal was "the most scenic" AMTRAK
train there was -- well, I may qualify that by adding that it
is one of the more scenic eastern trains, and is
probably only topped in scenery by the Adirondack
or the Vermonter. But the route of the Cardinal
definitely is scenic.
As we began our journey through northern Virginia, I reassessed
my video tape situation, and determined that I was in pretty good
shape after all, since I had taped less than an hour so far, and
there probably wouldn't be that much on this trip except the New
River Gorge in West Virginia, and that I will have plenty of tape
left for the best scenery in the western part of the country.
But I still may need that 5th 2-hour tape! At one point early
in this trip, I thought the air conditioning in the sleeper was
not working, but after we had run a couple hours, it seemed to
working fine. And Brenda spent most of the afternoon talking to
other passengers in the sleeper. She is a very pleasant and efficient
car attendant!
By the time we had arrived in Manassas, I had used up my first
hour of videotape, but that was no longer a big problem. I was
determined that I would need to use at least part of the 5th tape,
and if I did, that was fine -- I would just have to dub anything
over 8 hours onto a different "permanent" VHS tape when
I got home, since the VHS tape I had bought to dub the vacation
onto was only an 8-hour tape. Outside of Manassas, we passed the
Virginia Railway Express yards, and I had lunch as we passed through
Culpeper. At lunch I ate with a woman and her children who were
traveling to Canada. On my train trips, I always go first class
(sleeper), which of course includes 3 meals a day, but I do not
eat breakfast, since I enjoy getting up early and finding a perch
in the lounge car before it gets too crowded. I will eat lunch
and dinner on my trips, and for dinner, I normally choose the
latest serving time so I can maximize the daylight hours for sightseeing,
map following, and videotaping.
After Culpeper, we had our first freight delay of this trip,
and lost 15 or 20 minutes, so we were no longer running on schedule.
From looking at the AMTRAK "Train Arrival Status" page
on their Web site (http://www.reservations.amtrak.com) prior to
this trip, I saw that the Cardinal was usually within
a couple hours of schedule in Chicago, and I had a 4 hr 45 minute
layover before I caught the Empire Builder. So the
Cardinal could be as much as 4 hours late, and I
would still have plenty of time to catch the Builder.
I did not feel a "contingency plan" was needed for this
connection.
After lunch I decided to check out the "cafe coach"
-- what a disappointment! It is located in the lower level of
one of the Superliner coaches, and consists of a small serving
area with an attendant, and a couple long "bus bench"
seats which face away from the windows, with a maximum combined
capacity of about 8 people. And this was the only place on the
train where people could smoke. I chose not to spend my time in
that car, as my room would be more comfortable. The other unusual
thing about the cafe coach was that the coach above the cafe was
absolutely empty! Not one person was sitting there! Apparently,
according to the Chief, this car was reserved for a large group
of passengers who were getting on at Lafayette, IN, in the morning.
I missed the Sightseer lounge badly!! So back to my room I went
and continued my narrated video. The first place you can see the
Appalachian Mountains on this route is Gordonsville, VA, which
is east of Charlottesville. I had finished lunch long before Charlottesville,
and an announcement was made that the diner would reopen for lunch
after the Charlottesville stop to serve the passengers who got
on at Charlottesville only. We made the stop in Charlottesville,
and left 21 minutes late. A few miles before Charlottesville,
I looked into the hills on the left to see if I could see Monticello.
The famous home of President Thomas Jefferson is visible from
the AMTRAK line, but it was either too hazy today, or I was looking
at the wrong mountaintop, but I did not see it on this trip. After
the Charlottesville stop, I was ready for a change of scenery,
so I moved back to the empty coach about the "cafe"
car, to the right side of the train, so I could get some video
looking out both sides of the train. Back in the sleeper, the
person across from me had his door closed, so I couldn't see the
scenery on the other side of the train. I was going to stay in
the coach all the way until Staunton, but that idea was quickly
quelled, since my map book kept falling off the airline-sized
tray table in front of my seat, and it was not worth the hassle
to have to continually pick up maps and brochures and other junk
which falls out of my books. Besides that, according to my maps
and to what I was actually seeing in the scenery, the best scenery
this part of the trip was on the left side anyway, as we were
approaching the Blue Ridge Mountains. So, after 10 or 15 minutes
in the empty coach, it was back to the room.
From Crozet, VA on, the scenery becomes very pretty, especially
on the left, where there are many spectacular views of the Blue
Ridge (between areas obscured by trees!). We left Staunton, Virginia
27 minutes late. Just past the Staunton station, there are a number
of old passenger cars stored in a rail yard on the left, which
were interesting to see and to photograph. Between Staunton and
Clifton Forge, at "mile 410" of Railroad Log #55b (see
the first segment of this trip report for an explanation of my
milepost system and log/route map project), we stopped for several
minutes to allow the eastbound Cardinal (Train #50)
to pass. It happened to pass on my side of the train, and it had
a Sightseer Lounge! Sure wish this train had one too! The conductor
had made an announcement that we were supposed to get some "supplies"
from the eastbound train as it passed, but the eastbound train
did not stop as it passed, unless it stopped before it came into
the view from my room.
At Millboro, VA ("Mile 407.5" on my log), we again
slowed to a crawl for several minutes -- probably waiting for
a freight train ahead of us. I was beginning to wonder if we would
get to the New River Gorge while it was still daylight so I could
videotape it. By the time we had departed the Clifton Forge station,
we were 1 hour 19 minutes late. I was sure we would not
get to the Gorge in daylight hours -- another disappointment.
Just past Clifton Forge, the 5:30 dinner announcement was made,
but I had made my reservation for the latest seating, which was
8 PM on this segment of my trip.
After passing through the Allegheny Tunnel and entering West
Virginia, it was still light, so I then thought that maybe, just
maybe we would get to at least the south end of the Gorge
in daylight hours. Keep your fingers crossed, and hope for no
more delays this evening. We stopped at White Sulphur Springs
and had not lost any more time. The White Sulphur Springs station
is located across the street from the world famous Greenbrier
Resort, and many of the AMTRAK passengers who board or detrain
here are customers of the Greenbrier.
I changed camcorder battery packs between White Sulphur Springs
and Alderson, and put in a brand new battery pack which I had
purchased a few weeks before this trip. In about half an hour
(5 or 6 minutes of taping), the battery was half used already!
Whaaaat??????? I must have gotten a bum battery, or one that isn't
exactly the type I need or something -- oh well, I had at least
3 other "good" rechargeable battery packs, and I always
have my battery charger and electric razor (which also needs to
be charged when it is not in use) plugged into the 120v outlet
in my room -- I don't know if I'm allowed to do that or not, since
most of the outlets specify "razor only;" however, no
car attendant or conductor or Chief has ever called me on that,
so I guess it's okay. There is usually one battery pack charging
at any given time on my train trips. When I sit in the lounge
car for the day, I always carry a spare battery pack and tape
cassette with me, so I don't have to get up, walk through the
train, go back to the room, miss good scenery, or maybe lose my
seat, when I need to change tapes or batteries.
We left Alderson, WV about 1 hour 19 minutes behind schedule,
so we still had not lost any more time since Virginia. It was
beginning to get dark, but we weren't very far from the New River
Gorge, and besides that, my camcorder is very sensitive in "low
light" conditions, and takes remarkably good video even when
it is too dark outside to take a photo with a still camera. When
I look through my viewfinder in the evening, the scene I see is
often much brighter than the actual outside brightness!
The New River Gorge begins in Hinton, WV, where the Greenbrier
River empties into the New River. We left Hinton 1 hour 18 minutes
late. and, wouldn't you know it, it was now 8 PM -- dinner call!
I took my camcorder to the diner with me, and enjoyed my meal
with a woman and her somewhat heavy-set daughter, who had the
room behind me in the sleeper. They were very nice, but I was
more interested in looking at the Gorge than talking during this
dinner. Luckily, service was very efficient in the diner that
evening, and I finished my meal very fast, so I could still get
back to my room and see the New River Gorge bridge near Fayetteville
-- the one that you often see people bungie-jumping off of on
television during the Gorge's "Bridge Days" festival
each fall. And it was remarkably still light enough to see the
bridge and the Gorge, and of course railfans who often hang out
by the bridge to photograph the passing Cardinal
and the bridge and Gorge. However, shortly after the bridge, it
did become quite dark quite fast. I went to bed after the Huntington
stop.
A few years ago, when I lived in the Cincinnati area, I rode
the Cardinal between Chicago and Cincinnati often
(my parents lived in the Chicago area). The schedule of the Cardinal
in Cincinnati has never been one of convenience -- when I lived
there, I would board at 2 or 3 AM in the morning going west, and
5 or 6 AM going east. Going to Chicago, I would go in coach, since
I figured I had boarded the train in the middle of the night,
and it would not be worth the money just to sleep a couple hours.
I would just go to bed at home early that night (8 or 9 PM), sleep
for 4 or 5 hours, then go to the AMTRAK station. On the return
trip I would get a sleeper, however, since the train usually leaves
Chicago 7 or 8 PM in the evening, and arrives in CIN 5 or 6 AM
in the morning -- late enough to make it worth getting a sleeper.
On this trip, I had woken up at the Cincinnati station -- I
guess it was the Cincinnati station, but my room was on the opposite
side of the train from the station, but judging from the length
of time we were stopped, the actual clock time, some lights outside
my window, and a view of a myriad of rail yards out my window,
I knew it was the station. I didn't look at my watch when we left,
but I assume we hadn't lost any more time, but I was not worried,
since I had plenty of time to make the connection in Chicago.
There is a very brightly-lit power plant north of Cincinnati,
which I had forgotten about. This plant was visible from my side
of the train, and I had again woken up when we passed it, and
used the upstairs restroom in the sleeper as long as I was awake.
As I was walking through the car, the heavy-set woman who I had
eaten dinner with asked me about the brightly lit feature we had
passed. I don't understand how I could have forgotten about such
a spectacular sight from this route, after all my night trips
from Cincinnati, and I knew this was not something which was built
in the last 5 years. I told the woman that it was a power plant,
then I went back to bed, and woke up in the morning as we were
pulling into the Indianapolis station.
For the last few years, AMTRAK has equipped Superliner sleeping
cars with showers, which was a very good idea, an idea which was
implemented far too late in the evolution of AMTRAK. The showers
are interesting to use, and each train has somewhat different
fixtures and problems. On this train, there were three problems
-- 1) the water heater apparently was not working very well on
this train, since the shower was only lukewarm; 2) in this train,
you had to "pump" the shower to put out only a small
stream of water at a time; you could not get the water to run
continuously like you can on most other trains; and 3) the power
in the train went out while I was taking a shower! It was fun
taking a shower in the dark on the Cardinal! I believe
we were at the Indianapolis station when the power went out, so
it was not a major problem.
(Railroad Log #55a - CHI to CIN)
We had lost a few minutes overnight, and left Indianapolis
1 hour 22 minutes late. There would still be plenty of time to
make my connection in Chicago later in the day. The pretty scenery
was gone, and now we were traversing fairly flat monotonous farm
land, with small towns every few miles. The route of the Cardinal
out of Indianapolis follows a route which was used many many years
ago by AMTRAK by a train called the National Ltd,
which ran from Kansas City through Indianapolis, Dayton, OH, Columbus,
OH, and on to Pittsburgh and New York -- that train was discontinued
back in the mid-1970's. As the present day Cardinal
passes the Indianapolis airport a few miles west of town, it makes
a large bend to the north. At this point, the former route of
the National went straight past the airport, parallel
to U.S. 40. That route is gone now, and the tracks have been removed,
and there is absolutely no evidence that there was ever a rail
line there now -- no abandoned grades, bike trails, nothing. The
site of the old right-of-way is now occupied by mobile homes and
commercial buildings. At "Mile 181" on my log, there
is a funny little "raceway" on the left, called "Indianapolis
Motor Raceway" or some such thing -- not to be confused with
the big racetrack where the Indy 500 takes place -- the big racetrack
is nowhere near here. As we passed this little raceway, there
was a festival of some kind taking place, and there were tents,
cars, trucks, food booths, and other structures set up.
At Ames Junction, we switched onto the old Monon Line for the
remaining trip into Chicago. It always seems like it is quite
an effort for the Cardinal to negotiate the sharp
curve onto this switch, since every time I have ridden this train,
it passes the switch at an excessively slow crawl. Back when I
was in college at DePauw University, 15 miles south of here, in
Greencastle, many of us students from the Chicago area would ride
the old Monon Line to Chicago for holidays. The old Monon had
pretty good service, and good fares for students. The route we
are now on is the same as the old route. We arrived at the Crawfordsville
station soon. This is one of AMTRAK's "bus shelter"
stations. The old Monon depot is right next to the AMTRAK "station",
and I don't understand why they don't use the old station. Instead,
passengers board and get off at a very small glass-enclosed station
that looked more like a bus shelter than a railroad station --
no agent on duty, no posted timetables, and no baggage handlers.
The Cardinal left the Crawfordsville bus shelter
1 hour 30 minutes late.
The rest of the trip was rather uneventful, and I was starting
to get tired of being confined to my room in a Superliner train
without a Sightseer Lounge. I was impressed with the new Lafayette
station, which is located along the Wabash River, west of downtown.
It is a very pretty modern station, and because of its location,
the AMTRAK trains which serve Lafayette no longer have to use
the old rail line which goes down the center of 6th Street in
downtown Lafayette. I am sure the townspeople who drive cars on
6th Street on a daily basis are also pleased with the location
of the new station! We left Lafayette 1 hour 32 minutes late.
A few miles north of Lafayette, the railroad passes the Tippecanoe
Battlefield Memorial Park, which is visible from the train. There
is a large monument in the park which commemorates the 1811 Battle
of Tippecanoe. Unfortunately, due to the thick growth of trees
in the area, the monument is difficult to see during the summer,
but if you travel this route in the winter, it is much easier
to see. On the day we passed through the area, there was another
festival of some kind going on at the Park, and there were many
vehicles, people, food and craft booths, and other activity in
the area.
The last leg of this segment was Dyer, IN to Chicago. We left
Dyer 1 hour 20 minutes late, and as I was following my maps north
of Dyer, the train switched onto another track at a different
location than my map showed. It took me a few minutes to realize,
but I soon figured out that the route of the Cardinal
between Dyer and Chicago had changed yet again!
This route has changed several times over the last 15 years or
so. I update my route maps once every 7 to 8 years, and it seems
that each time I update this route, no sooner is that done than
the route changes yet again! I can't keep up with it! I was wondering
why the current schedule gives almost 2 hours to go the 28 miles
between Dyer and Chicago Union Station. I know that most schedules
have some "padding" in them to accommodate late trains,
but it seems the last time I rode this train, there was less padding
in the schedule. This new route was not shown on my 1:24,000 scale
topographic maps (1 inch=2000 ft); however, I just happened to
have a smaller -scale map of the area in my map book, a map at
the scale of 1:250,000 (1 inch=4 miles). Maps of that scale are
often hard to follow, especially in an area like Chicago, built
up with so many different railroad lines. I was able to follow
this route, however, and now I need to get back to the map library
and copy the 1:24,000 scale maps with the new route (of course,
by the time I do that, the route will probably have changed again!).
Based on my map reading and interpretation skills, the current
(as of July 1998) route from Dyer to Chicago is: switch from the
Monon to the Grand Trunk 2 miles north of the Dyer station; take
the Grand Trunk to the Chicago & Eastern Illinois; go north
on C&EI through Riverdale; cross the Little Calumet River;
cross the Illinois Central and continue north through Evergreen
Park; pass beneath the Chicago & Rock Island; continue following
the Chicago & Western Indiana (don't know where the track
changes from C&EI to C&WI!); and enter the regular AMTRAK/Conrail/Metra
north of Englewood, 5 miles south of Union Station.
We finally backed into Chicago Union Station and arrived 1
hour 18 minutes behind schedule, at 11:33 AM -- still plenty of
time to catch the Empire Builder at 3 PM. I headed
for the Metropolitan Lounge immediately, got my "boarding
pass" to enter the lounge upon showing the attendant my tickets,
which verified that I was indeed a sleeping car passenger holding
valid tickets for that afternoon's Empire Builder.
I got my "7" stickers to put on my suitcases (for Train
#7, even though I would actually be on Train #27 from Chicago
to Portland. Train #7 is the Builder from Chicago
to Seattle. I guess the #27 number doesn't really exist until
after the Builder splits in Spokane.) I had some
time to kill, so I walked outside and down the street to Wendy's
on Jackson Blvd. to get some lunch, then went back to the station
and sat outside in the Marsh & McLennan Plaza, which overlooks
the Chicago River. It was a warm Saturday afternoon, and several
pleasure boats were cruising on the river, as well as some barges
and other commercial watercraft.
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