Rich's 1998 Amtrak Trip
www.trainweb.com/travelogues/rrrich/builder.html
PART 3
EMPIRE BUILDER
Chicago, Illinois to Portland, Oregon
July 25-27, 1998
(Railroad Log #15d- Chicago
to the Twin Cities)
During my layover in Chicago, I spent some time watching the
pleasure boats, as well as barges, plying the Chicago River right
outside Union Station. I then had a rare chance to wander around
the platform where the Builder was already sitting
(I believe the Builder uses the same equipment as
the City of New Orleans. When the City
arrives at CUS in the morning, instead of being pulled into the
yards for servicing, I believe the train is "pulled through"
the station, cleaned, and then used on the outbound Empire
Builder). It is rare indeed to have a chance to walk onto
the track platforms at CUS, since the station staff try to keep
visitors off the platforms until the trains are ready to board
-- I guess they are afraid of "stowaways" or something.......????
The south concourse is much more heavily guarded than the north
concourse, however, since most commuter (Metra) and AMTRAK trains
use the south concourse. Most of the trains which arrive and depart
at the north concourse at CUS are Milwaukee District Metra commuter
trains, and at any given time of the day, there are likely 2 or
3 Metra trains boarding. Passengers can board Metra trains any
time they want, and have unlimited access to the platforms. The
only AMTRAK trains which use the north concourse are the Builder
and the Hiawatha Service trains to Milwaukee. The
Builder was on the easternmost track on this day
(the one closest to the Chicago River). The first thing I checked
for, of course, was the Sightseer Lounge. Yes, today's train did
indeed have a Sightseer Lounge! - finally. In addition, a private
C&O business car was attached to the back of the train --
a car named Chapel Hill. I found out later that it was
being chartered by some VIP's who were going as far as Whitefish,
Montana -- yet most of their baggage was stored in my sleeper
car for some reason! I don't know how many people were riding
in Chapel Hill, but there were enough suitcases for 10
or 15 people!
The sleeper passengers were boarded from the Metropolitan Lounge,
as usual. I was given a "7" sticker for my suitcases
(for Train #7, the CHI-SEA section, even though I was actually
in the Portland section, which is Train #27 beyond Spokane, Washington).
I am riding in Room 11, on the lower level of the Superliner
II sleeping car Nevada -- I believe all the Superliner
II sleepers are named after states (what if there are more than
50 such cars?) The sleeping car attendant's name was Bill (didn't
catch his last name), and our On-Board Chief was Pete Thomas.
We left approximately 13 minutes late, as we had to wait for connecting
passengers from the Wolverine. I did not really
have a "contingency plan" for this train (see Part 1
of my travelogue, in which I describe my contingency plans). According
to http://www.amtrak. reservations.com, the Builder
had arrived into Portland within 2 hours of schedule just about
every day I had checked for the last 5 or 6 weeks, and I had a
4 hr 15 minute connection at PDX. AMTRAK typically "guarantees"
most connections of more than 1 hour -- if the train arrives late,
the guaranteed connection may be a connecting bus, or passengers
may be asked to disembark at a station which the connecting train
will be going through in the opposite direction. On rare occasions,
AMTRAK has been known to fly passengers to make a guaranteed connection.
(this happened to me in 1996, but that is another travelogue!)
Of course I was eager to get into the Sightseer Lounge immediately
after my ticket had been collected, so I wandered up a few cars
to the lounge, but found the coach car attendant standing in front
of the door telling passengers the lounge would not open until
the Glenview stop, so back I went to my room, even after telling
the attendant that I was not interested in purchasing any food
or drinks at this time, but merely wanted to sit there -- no way!
The lounge would open at the Glenview stop -- period. (a note
on the consist of this train: there is one Portland sleeper and
2 Portland coaches at the back of the train, then the Sightseer
Lounge is ahead of the coaches. Ahead of the lounge is the diner,
and ahead of it, the Seattle section. I didn't wander into the
Seattle section, so I didn't note what cars it included). In Spokane,
the train is split, and the rear portion, including the Sightseer
lounge, goes to Portland, while the forward section, with the
diner, goes to Seattle. Box breakfasts are typically served in
the lounge car in the Portland section.
As soon as we stopped in Glenview, I went to the Sightseer
Lounge, which was now open and filling fast. The lounge car attendant
was named "Mona Lisa" (I don't know if that is her real
name or not!....). I got my map books out and began the continuation
of my video. For the Builder route, I have 4 "logs"
which cover the route (Log #15d - St. Paul/Minneapolis to Chicago;
Log #15c - Glacier Park to St. Paul/ Minneapolis; Log #15a - Seattle
to Glacier Park; and Log #15b - Portland to Spokane). See Part
1 of this travelogue for an explanation of my logs and map books
(which always draw the attention of a few fellow passengers
who immediately think I "work for AMTRAK" when they
see my maps -- the second thing they want to know is "where
did you get those?" Of course, the answer to that question
is I made them myself). Passing through West Lake Forest, I was
able to video the local Metra station there, which I have traveled
to on many occasions.
My mother and sister live about 5 miles from the Lake Forest
Metra station. I was originally going to take this trip a month
earlier, in June, but my father, who had been in ill health for
several years, had passed away a few days before my trip was to
begin, so I had to make a quick change of plans, cancel my original
AMTRAK reservation, make a new reservation (for an August trip),
then I "cheated" and flew to Chicago from Orlando (in
the interest of time) for a week. Once I had gotten to Chicago
and assessed the situation about my father -- when the memorial
service would be, what needed to be done, etc., I visited the
Glenview AMTRAK station and rescheduled the August reservation
for July -- this trip! At first, I was unable to get sleeper space
on this train, but upon rechecking at Glenview the following day,
the space had become available, albeit on the lower level of the
Superliner II sleeper, but that was okay. Then there was a problem
with my credit card, since apparently, with my low credit limit
(which I keep low for personal reasons), I did not have enough
available credit to reserve this trip, since I had already put
the August trip on the card. I was able to keep the July reservation,
though, and when I got back to Orlando, I was able to "transfer"
my payment for the August reservation to the July reservation,
plus pay a small upgrade fee (AMTRAK fares are different in August
than they are in July!). I had paid for the original trip with
a check, but since the Glenview agent did not have that much cash
on hand to refund me, he took my tickets and processed my refund,
then sent it to AMTRAK for me. I received the refund check at
home approximately 6 weeks later.
We left Milwaukee approximately 16 minutes late. While in the
station, I looked at a very colorfully decorated Hiawatha
train which had just pulled in. The Hiawatha cars
are Heritage-style coaches, and are decorated with colorful "Wisconsin
scenes." A few miles west of Milwaukee, I finally finished
recording the first of my five 2-hour video tapes. By now I had
accepted the fact that I will definitely have more than
8 hours of video this trip! (hopefully not 10 hours, but as a
minimum, 8 1/2 or 9 hours) We then left Columbus, Wisconsin, 20
minutes late. Between Columbus and Portage is the small town of
Wyocena, which is the home of a very strange-looking relic of
Christmases past, known as "Santa's Flying Rocket."
This vehicle (I guess it was a vehicle!) has been sitting in a
salvage yard in Wyocena for as long as I have been riding AMTRAK
trains, about 20 years now! In years past it was a novelty which
was quite visible from the Builder, and always got
lots of laughs. This contraption is still there, but if you don't
know where to look, most passengers will not see it any more,
since the lettering on it has long since faded, and more recent
accumulations of other junk have kept it out of the main view
from the train -- but it is still there, and I took a video of
it.
After the Wisconsin Dells station, I went back to my room to
escape the crowds in the Sightseer Lounge for a while. We left
Tomah, Wisconsin, 25 minutes late, and I took my video camera
to the end of my sleeper and filmed the view as we passed through
"the only tunnel on the line east of the Mississippi River"
at Tunnel City. My video view also included a shot of the private
Chapel Hill car being towed by our train. As we were passing
through Tunnel City, the On-Board Chief, Pete Thomas, made an
announcement to wish a happy birthday to a young lady named "Danielle,"
who was riding on the train.
By the time we had arrived at the Mississippi River, west of
LaCrosse, it was dinner time, so I made my way to the diner, and
got a table on the "river" side of the train, so I could
video the beautiful Mississippi River sunset while I was waiting
for dinner. Joining me in the diner was a "good old couple"
who were traveling to Devils Lake to pick up a car which they
were having fixed. Apparently they had originally planned their
vacation trip by automobile all the way, but had car trouble in
Devils Lake, so left the car with a friend to be fixed while they
continued their trip by AMTRAK. During dinner, the husband recalled
his version of a story from history about George Washington throwing
a silver dollar across the Mississippi River, but I corrected
him and told him that I believe it was actually George Washington
who threw the silver dollar across the river, and that the river
was either the Potomac or the Rappahannock River, in Virginia,
and not the Mississippi River in Minnesota! After dinner, I returned
to the Sightseer Lounge for a while longer, and the first featured
film of the trip was being shown, "Air Force One." The
on-board entertainment system on this train had two volume settings
-- off and LOUD! The movie could be heard all the way through
at least the first Portland coach behind the lounge, especially
when the door from the lounge to the coach was open. I am glad
I wasn't a passenger in that coach who had to put up with that
for 2 hours! When the crew was asked if the volume of the television
could be turned down, the standard answer was no. I believe the
master control for the VCR system is located in the lower level
of the lounge car in the service area, and operable by the lounge
attendant, but I was not about to ask Mona Lisa to turn the noise
down! Instead, I returned to my quiet sleeper room!
In St. Paul's Midway AMTRAK station, I got off the train to
stretch for a few minutes, then went to bed shortly after we had
left the Twin Cities 15 minutes late.
(Railroad Log #15c - Twin Cities to Glacier Park)
For some reason we lost some time overnight, and I never investigated
the reason. With a 4 1/2 hour layover in Portland,
I still had no need to worry. We were only 1 hour 4 minutes late
departing Grand Forks. I had awaken just north of Fargo, and was
again perched in the Sightseer Lounge by the time we had arrived
at Grand Forks. The Grand Forks, N.D. station is interesting --
it is nowhere near Grand Forks, but located approximately 5 miles
west of town in "West Grand Forks," which is little
more than a couple buildings on Demers Avenue (Demers runs parallel
to U.S. 2, and is one mile south of U.S. 2 in this area). When
I first began riding AMTRAK, in the late 1970's, the Builder
stopped in downtown Grand Forks, but AMTRAK eliminated that station
because of the constant freight traffic in the industrial areas
near the old downtown station, and to eliminate a back-up move
which was necessary back then to get the train into downtown Grand
Forks, then back onto the main BNSF line headed west.
At first it was rather chilly in the Sightseer Lounge, but
as more people joined me in the lounge, and as the day got later,
it warmed up. At the Devils Lake station, I saw my dinner partners
from last night on the platform. We left Devils Lake 1 hour 2
minutes late, but gradually made up a little more time at each
subsequent station throughout the day, due to the presence of
"padding" in the schedule of the Empire Builder.
The trip across North Dakota and eastern Montana was rather uneventful.
I continued my video and followed my route maps, occasionally
conversing with another railfan who had both a video camera and
a still camera, whom I kept informed of all the upcoming scenic
spots for photos, based on my maps and previous experience on
this route.
At Rugby, the Chief announced that this town is the Geographic
Center of North America, and there is a sign on the Rugby station
stating the same thing. In Minot, which is a crew change and servicing
stop, I again got off the train and walked around. It was actually
hot outside! One rarely thinks of Minot, North Dakota, as being
hot, but it sure was hot today! We had made up some time, and,
according to my watch, we had left 24 minutes late, although after
departure, the Chief made an announcement that we were 40 minutes
behind schedule, but would make it up. Shortly after our departure
from Minot, the second movie feature of the trip began in the
lounge, "Anastasia." And again, the volume was set on
LOUD. My video commentary during this movie was seriously drowned
out. Luckily, it was soon lunch time, as we passed into eastern
Montana and set our watches back one hour, to Mountain Time. I
had lunch with my fellow railfan with the cameras and a young,
very recently-married (about 2 days before this day!) couple who
was going to Korea eventually. We then left Williston, N.D., only
27 minutes late.
After the movie and lunch, it was back to the lounge. The route
of the Builder follows U.S. Highway 2 most of the
way across North Dakota and Montana. A young hippie-looking couple
were sitting near me in the Sightseer Lounge and kept pointing
off into the distance saying "There they are!" or "Is
that them?" I didn't really know what they were looking at
initially, but figured it was some kind of elusive, hard-to-see
animal or bird. I finally figured out that what they were looking
at was a group of motorcycles who were driving down U.S. 2, at
just about the same speed as the train, followed by a couple cars
and a van. We saw the motorcycles at several locations across
Montana, but I never asked whether the couple in the lounge car
knew the people on the motorcycles, or whether they just liked
motorcycles.
After our departure from Glasgow, the available dinner seating
times were announced and reservations were made. The choices tonight
would be 5 PM, 5:30, 6 PM, 7 PM, or 8:30. As usual, I chose the
latest sitting, since I wanted to take maximum advantage of the
daylight hours, especially through Glacier Park, where we would
be by 8 or 8:30 PM. Also today, the Dining Car Steward offered
an "alternate" dinner choice -- I believe he called
it an Empire Builder "picnic box dinner."
This choice would cost $17, and the box dinners would be picked
up in Havre, so if you wanted one, you had to make a reservation
for it now. The dinners would then be distributed from the lounge
car. Very strange!.......... I have been on a few hopelessly late
trains on which such creative choices are offered in an effort
to feed passengers when such trains arrived at their destinations
well after the traditional "meal times" and after all
the food allotted for the train is gone, but have never seen such
creative dinner alternatives offered as a standard choice on any
nearly on-time train! AMTRAK trains normally carry just enough
food to last for all the meals which would normally be served
during the regular schedule of the train. I opted to take advantage
of my complimentary meal in the diner (which is included with
my first-class sleeper fare), rather than the picnic box dinner.
We were soon informed that the train would arrive on time in
Havre, even though we were a few minutes behind schedule now,
and that the first stop in Havre would be a fuel stop, after which
the train would pull up a few feet to the station, and people
could detrain. Again, this is possible due to more "padding"
in the schedule. We made our fuel stop, and I again detrained
for a few minutes at the Havre station, and it was still hot!
I took some video of Great Northern locomotive no. 2584, a "Northern"
type locomotive, which is on display at the station. I had left
my map books on my seat in the nearly-empty Sightseer Lounge,
where I figured they would be safe, which they were. And, as promised,
we left Havre on time! We also left Shelby on time, and shortly
after the Shelby station, the third feature movie of the trip
was shown in the lounge, "Liar Liar." And, again, the
volume was turned to the LOUD setting.
After two on-time departures, as we approached Cut Bank, we
had freight delays; however, these delays only put us about 10
minutes behind schedule. Between Cut Bank and Glacier Park, I
suddenly had another problem -- for some reason, I was not able
to focus my camcorder any more, no matter what I did. I thought
maybe the internal lithium battery was running down, but I should
have known that the lithium battery has nothing to with the focusing
mechanics of the camera! Sometimes, when I move the camera from
a darker location to a brighter location (or vice-versa), the
scene becomes temporarily out of focus, but the automatic focus
mechanism generally adjusts to the new conditions within seconds.
The automatic focus did not seem to be adjusting this time, however,
and consequently I missed some scenes which I was looking forward
to capturing, such as the view of the small Blackfoot Indian community
of Browning, the first close-up view of the mountains of Glacier
Park, and the crossing of the Two Medicine Creek bridge immediately
before the Glacier Park station. I finally decided to change the
lithium battery, and I knew that, while I change the lithium battery,
an external battery pack must be connected to the camcorder or
I will lose the time and date settings. I connected one of my
"good" battery packs to the camera, then replaced the
lithium battery, but that didn't work, so I put the old lithium
battery back into the camera. For some reason, the external battery
pack I was using was not making contact with the camera, or it
was actually not a "good" battery, and, in spite of
all my care and caution, I still lost the date and time settings
on the camcorder! I thought I would have to take the camera to
Circuit City and have the settings re-initiated at the factory,
but I found out later that I could have reset the date and time
myself, but I have never quite figured out how to do that. After
fumbling unsuccessfully for several minutes, I finally realized
that the focusing problem had nothing to do with the battery,
but my polarizing filter was smudged, and the "automatic
focus" feature of the camcorder was focusing on the filter,
and not on the distant scenery!
(Railroad Log #15a- Glacier Park to Seattle (Spokane))
Due to the noise from the movie in the Sightseer Lounge, I
had returned to my room to watch the scenery through Glacier Park.
We left East Glacier 11 minutes late, and I thought my room, on
the north side of the sleeper, would offer the best view of the
scenery, based on recollections from my last trip on the Builder,
which was several years ago, and on my maps, but my recollections
apparently were incorrect. In the summer at this time of day,
the sun is still quite high in the sky, and shone very brightly
into my window, therefore I could not get good video on the north
side of the train. Besides that, the scenery through the first
half of the trip through Glacier Park is actually much better
on the south side of the train, as the route passes high above
the Bear Creek valley. Since I could not see the south side of
the scenery from my room (the occupant of the room across from
me had the curtains closed!), I spent much of that part of the
trip taking video from the window in the stairwell, which was
on the south side of the train. The scenery is beautiful through
Glacier Park, and I was more interested in getting good video
rather than keeping track of the progress of the train mile by
mile, so I didn't even follow my map books through Glacier Park.
As I was standing in the stairwell taking videos, an announcement
was made by lounge attendant Mona Lisa, saying that both the upstairs
and downstairs portions of the Sightseer Lounge were now closed
for cleaning! Whaaat? The most scenic part of the trip, and the
Sightseer Lounge is not open? What's wrong with this picture?
Mona had indicated, however, that the lounge would not be closed
very long -- just long enough to clean up and rewind the "Liar
Liar" movie. Forgive me for being naive, but I would have
figured that, while traveling through the most scenic part of
this route, most people would be more interested in watching the
beautiful evening mountain scenery than a movie! So I stayed in
the sleeper and continued my video through the stairwell windows.
It was still quite light outside, surprisingly. I had forgotten
that, during the summer months, the further north one goes, the
longer is the twilight period and the later the sun sets. I was
therefore able to get some very good video. Eventually, the tracks
cross the Middle Fork of the Flathead River, and the best scenery
is then on the north side of the train. At about that point in
the route, the train also makes a bend to the northwest, so the
sun is then on the opposite side of the train, and better photos
can be obtained from the north side of the train. Upon the approach
to the Essex station, a few buildings which appear to be hunting
or fishing cabins appear on the right. When I saw them, I was
not sure where we were exactly, since I had not been following
my maps, but it soon became apparent that they are a part of the
small Great Northern Railroad-built community of Essex. And, as
could be expected, just then, the 8:30 dinner call came, so I
hustled into the diner, hoping to continue my video through the
Park.
I was seated on the south side of the dining car; however,
I was able to use the zoom feature in my camcorder to get good
video through the window on the other side of the train, of the
beautiful Izaak Walton Inn, which is located just west of the
Essex station. There are two problems in using the zoom feature
on my camcorder -- 1) it is very difficult to hold the camera
still without a tripod when I am "zoomed" on a feature,
therefore the video comes out "shaky," and 2) using
the zoom runs down the battery pack faster than when the zoom
is not in use, thus necessitating more frequent replacements of
the battery pack. The Essex stop exists as a flag stop for the
Empire Builder, almost exclusively to pick up and
deliver Glacier Park tourists to and from the Izaak Walton Inn.
I enjoyed dinner with one of a group of five couples, who were
apparently all related, who had just gotten on at Essex -- they
were apparently hungry, as they immediately headed for the diner
upon boarding! By the time the train had passed the Izaak Walton
Inn, all 5 couples were already seated in the diner!
The next stop was the West Glacier station, formerly known
as Belton. Below the "West Glacier" sign at the station
is a smaller and older plain wooden sign which still says "Belton."
There is also an old orange "hippie bus" parked at the
West Glacier station, which has been parked there on every trip
I have ever made on the Builder! I assume it is
still used to shuttle people between the station and various points
of interest in the Park. As we were eating dinner, the couple
at my table had remarked that they had just been to West Glacier
a few hours ago, in a car. I guess they didn't realize that the
route of the Builder goes through West Glacier,
and may not have realized that they could have caught the train
at that location, if it would have been more convenient than boarding
at Essex.
At the Whitefish station, there is a scheduled stop of at least
half an hour, for crew change and train servicing, so again there
was time to get off the train and stretch. It was about quarter
of 10 Sunday evening now, and was still light outside!!! Again,
the further north one goes, the later it stays light. The late
sunset probably also has something to do with the location of
Whitefish within the time zone; I believe Whitefish is located
in the extreme western part of the Mountain Time Zone. During
our stop at Whitefish, the Chapel Hill car was taken off
the end of our train, along with the massive amounts of baggage
stored in my Nevada sleeper for the occupants of the private
car. Additionally, a group of 20 high school Bible students from
Chagrin Falls, Ohio, had gotten off to embark on a mission trip
to rebuild some older churches in the Whitefish area and then
spend some time in Glacier Park. I did not record the arrival
and departure times of the train at Whitefish; however, I do not
believe we were more than 15 or 20 minutes behind schedule. After
the Whitefish stop, I went to my room, hoping to turn in for the
night.
I awoke at the Spokane station, and it seemed that the train
had been sitting at the station for much longer than the scheduled
1-hour stop, so I got off the train to investigate. The trains
had already been split into the Seattle and Portland sections,
and the Seattle section was ahead of the Portland section sitting
on the same track. Some mechanics were obviously working on something
on the Seattle section. Apparently there was an air leak in one
of the hoses, and consequently there were no brakes at any point
behind the air leak. The mechanics were having a difficult time
locating the leak. After looking for 45 minutes or so, it was
decided to pull the Seattle section ahead a few hundred feet,
then move it back down to an adjacent track, so that the Portland
section could depart, and the Seattle section could be evaluated
further and worked on. I watched this move, then, convinced we
would soon be leaving, retired back to my room for the night,
and the Portland section soon departed. I believe we lost approximately
one hour in Spokane; however, I did not check our departure time
against the timetable. I am glad I was not on the Seattle section,
since, when the section was pulled forward to allow the Portland
section to depart, I would have thought we too were departing,
and would not have realized that we would be at the station a
while longer looking for an air leak. I wonder what the AMTRAK
crew told the passengers on that section about the delay......
(Railroad Log #15b- Spokane to Portland)
The Empire Builder has historically run on two
different routes between Spokane and Pasco, one route being a
former Spokane, Portland, & Seattle route, and one route being
a former Northern Pacific route (both of which are now BNSF, of
course). There are no stops between Spokane and Pasco, and this
route is traveled overnight going both directions. I had mapped
both routes, but was not sure which route the Builder
currently uses. I awoke on Monday morning somewhere north of Pasco,
and enjoyed another Superliner-style shower. This shower was much
better than the one I had taken on the Cardinal.
The water was warmer, and you could actually turn the water on,
remove your hand from the knob, and the water continued to run
-- this shower did not need to be "pumped," as the one
on the Cardinal did. As soon as I got to the Sightseer
Lounge (the Sightseer goes with the Portland section; the diner
goes with the Seattle section), I began looking for landmarks,
which are very scarce in this dry, featureless part of Washington!
I finally saw the name of "Connell" in a town we passed
through, which I found on my map of the westernmost of the 2 routes,
the route which passes through Ritzville. I do not know if the
eastbound Portland section takes the same route; I believe it
takes the eastern BNSF route. If anyone reading this knows, please
e-mail me at rrrich123@aol.com. The consist of the train
was now somewhat smaller than it was before the split in Spokane.
The Sightseer Lounge car is directly behind the Genesis engine
now, and behind the lounge are the 2 Portland coaches and the
Portland sleeper. Apparently there are no baggage cars on the
Portland section.
We left Pasco 1 hour 46 minutes late. The Pasco station has
an interesting modernistic painting of an AMTRAK train on the
station wall, which I caught on video. Between Pasco and Portland,
the route of the Empire Builder follows the Columbia
River Gorge. I found a seat on the south side of the Sightseer
Lounge, and began watching the Columbia River Gorge pass by for
several hundred miles. The Chief of On-Board services gave a commentary
on many of the features which are passed on the Columbia River
Gorge route. I don't believe the Chief was still Pete Thomas --
I believe Pete had gone on the Seattle section, and I never caught
the name of the Portland chief or saw him.
At "Mile 103" on my logs (see Part 1 of this travelogue
for an explanation of my milepost system) is the first view of
Mt. Hood, the beautiful snow-capped volcano that is the highest
point in the state of Oregon, across the river. The Builder
of course traverses the Washington side of the river. Some of
the features pointed out by the Chief were the four major hydroelectric
dams the route passes (McNairy, John Day, The Dalles, and Bonneville,
going downstream toward Portland), the "Hat Rock" visible
across the river on the Oregon side, the Stonehenge Memorial near
Wishram, Beacon Rock, the Bridge of the Gods, and Multnomah Falls,
on the Oregon side, which I could not see. As we approached Wishram,
I wanted to take a video of the Stonehenge Memorial, but wouldn't
you know it, just then my camcorder battery pack again ran out
and had to be replaced. By the time I replaced the battery pack,
I had missed the scene!
At Mile 76 on my maps, we passed what I am sure was the American-Orient
Express, on one of its many annual luxury "land cruises."
With both trains running at 79 mph, the passing speed of the other
train is more like 158 mph, so details of the train cannot be
seen. Based on the passing flash of the characteristic yellow
and blue colors, however, I am sure it was in fact the A-O-E we
had passed! One of these years I'll have to take a vacation on
that train, which I understand is quite expensive, but the service,
accommodations, and food is well worth it! We had departed the
Wishram station 1 hour 49 minutes late, and departed Bingen-White
Salmon 1 hour 46 minutes late. At mile 121 on my maps, (121 miles
east of Portland), Mona Lisa made another announcement that the
Sightseer Lounge would now be closing -- for good. I understand
that the lounge attendants have to close down a little before
reaching the final destination, but why 2 hours early? We were
still able to sit in the lounge, but we could no longer buy anything
from Mona. I stayed in the Sightseer lounge until Vancouver, and
finished recording yet another 2-hour video tape by then! Time
to put tape 3 into the camcorder (gee, are five 2-hour tape cassettes
going to be enough after all?) As I arrived back in my room to
prepare for arrival in Portland, I suddenly realized that I only
had 3 camcorder battery packs, yet I knew I was supposed to have
4. I had no idea what happened to the 4th battery -- maybe someone
stole it, or maybe I somehow absent-mindedly put one of the battery
packs in my suitcase or something. I know I did not leave it in
the lounge, because I knew I only had one battery pack in the
camcorder and one spare in my pocket while sitting in the lounge,
and I still had both of those. I was determined that I had lost
it somewhere, and would have to get through the rest of the trip
on only 3 battery packs, including the one which was rather borderline
(the new one). Pulling into the Portland station, in a last ditch
attempt, I looked one more place -- under the seat in the room.
Sure enough, there was my missing battery pack! It had apparently
fallen off the window ledge, where I had set it after I changed
battery packs at the Stonehenge Memorial, so that I would know
which battery needs to be charged next. So I still had all 4 batteries!
Whew!!
We arrived in Portland 1 1/2 hours late,
and it was 99 F! The hottest day in Portland for many years! I
found the Metropolitan Lounge, but not without some investigation.
As I walked into the station, I saw a door which said "Metropolitan
Lounge", but it appeared to be in an area which was roped
off, where passengers are not allowed. I thought there may be
another door to it inside the station, so went in but did not
find any other door. I finally asked someone, and was directed
back outside to the door I had first seen, so tried to open it,
but it was locked. I finally noticed a doorbell on the left side
of the door, so rang it, and the door was then opened by the attendant,
who welcomed me into the first class lounge. It is a nice lounge,
and has large picture windows facing directly onto the tracks,
so one can watch trains while waiting in the lounge. There were
a few other people in the lounge, but it certainly was not crowded,
and there were plenty of free beverages and candy mints available
for the passengers. While I was sitting in the lounge, there was
a couple there who were waiting to board the eastbound Empire
Builder, which uses the same equipment as the train I
had just ridden -- the train is cleaned and turned in Portland
for the return trip. One of the conductors had walked into the
lounge and told the couple that the sleeping car had been bad
ordered and would now not be available for their trip. This of
course was the same sleeper I had ridden in. The couple was offered
apologies from AMTRAK and offered coach accommodations and a partial
refund. Bummer!........
I had lunch at Wilf's Restaurant in Portland, which is located
in the same building as Union Station; yet one cannot enter it
from the station. You have to go outside and into a separate entrance
to the restaurant.
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